What Is The Blinds In Poker
If you’re playing in a cash game that’s capped, but is described as offering full buy-ins, you may be playing under the “100 BB” (Big Blind) rule. As an example, 100 big blinds in a $1/$2 game is $200, which is often the maximum allowed in this type of game. (Certain games can feature maximum buy-ins of 30, 35 or 40 big blinds, and these are generally referred to as “short stack” games.) For general purposes this article is for cash games. Please see our article for the 10 bb rule in tournaments.
- The mandatory payments preflop are referred to as “ blinds ” because the small-blind and big-blind positions don’t get to check their hole-cards before deciding whether to invest in the pot. Being forced to invest chips into the pot while blind is a huge disadvantage in general.
- Blinds are a vital component of many poker games and having the right knowledge about them plays a huge role in the overall gaming experience. But what exactly is a blind? Let’s break it all down here. A blind is simply a compulsory or forced bet that is made before any of the cards in a poker game are dealt.
Poker blinds are mandatory wagers that must be placed into the pot before any cards are dealt. They are paid by the players occupying the “small blind” and “big blind” positions at the table. The blinds themselves are named after the table positions “small blind” and “big blind”.
The 100 BB Importance
What’s so important about the 100 big-blind level, and how did it come to be? First, it’s easy math, and cashiers and chip runners like their jobs to be easy as possible. Second, and more importantly, a game featuring full buy-ins allows for the full gamut of strategy of no-limit poker to come into play. 100-BB cash-game poker is the complete game, allowing for bluffs, finesses, re-steals, squeezes, traps, and all the other bits and pieces that make poker such a dynamic game to play.
Keep it at This Amount
Because of this, many experienced players reload for another 100 BB in chips any time their chip stack falls below this level. Experienced, versatile (and properly-bankrolled) players perform at their best when they have lots of chips to work with, and at all times they can only win as much from another single player as the amount of chips their own stacks hold. The shortest stack at any given table has the least to lose… but he also has the least to win.
Another way to think of it is like this: If you are better than your opponents, you want to be able to win as many of their chips as possible. Because of this, you want to have all or many of them outchipped at any given time. We’ll ignore the opposite for the most part and just note that if you’re not better than most of your opponents, you’re sitting at the wrong table.
Rule of thumb, Time to Rebuy
The 100-BB rule, therefore, is simply a general reminder to good players that it might be time to rebuy and get some more chips into play. Maybe you’ve taken a bad beat, or two, or three, but if you can avoid tilt and you know your opponents are worse than you, remember that the cards themselves have no memory.
And go ahead and reload – another 100 BB’s should do the trick.
Author:Joseph Falchetti (twitter)
(C) Copyright PokerWebsites.com, 2018
Ed. note: For those who might have missed it before, we're reprising Robert Woolley's series of articles for poker players who are new to live poker. The series is great for newcomers, and likely useful as well to those with experience playing in casinos and poker rooms.
At some point in just about every cash session of hold'em poker in a casino, you will be faced with this scenario:
You're in the big blind. The player to your left, first to act, folds. So does the next player, and the next, and so on, including the button. The player in the small blind now turns to you and asks a single word: 'Chop?'
I was among the many, many players who had no idea what was being asked of me the first time this happened. I'd like to fill you in so that you don't end up as flustered as I was.
'Chopping the blinds' in cash games is allowed in every casino in which I've played poker. It means that when everybody except the two blinds has folded before the flop, the last two players may end the hand right then and there. If both players agree to it, they can take back their blind bets, and the hand ends. The button advances, and the game moves on to the next hand, with nobody having either won or lost a dime. (At least that's how it works in Las Vegas. I've heard that some card rooms elsewhere take a small rake even if the blinds are chopped, which I think is unconscionable.)
So... knowing what the question whether or not you'd like to chop the blinds means, how should you answer it?
To Chop or Not to Chop?
My reaction when I was first presented with this option was to reject it. After all, I came to the casino to play, not to fold. My selfish reasons for wanting to play rather than chop have only become stronger as I have gained poker experience. Playing blind-versus-blind presents difficult tactical and hand-reading challenges, and I have reason to believe that I will, on average, make those tricky decisions better than my opponent, and the situation will therefore be profitable or 'positive EV' for me.
However, there are also legitimate reasons to favor chopping. Often both players will have nothing in the way of starting hands, and the hand will play out either checked down all the way, or with one bet at some point followed by an immediate fold. Either way, somebody wins a $3 pot in a $1/$2 no-limit hold'em game. Worse, that $3 pot may be reduced by some amount of rake. For such paltry stakes, the whole table is delayed from getting on to the next hand.
But the most important reason to agree to a chop is social. A high percentage of low-stakes players have a strong preference to chop. You do have veto power over that choice, but if you exercise it, you might generate resentment in a lot of opponents. Some significant fraction of them will immediately retaliate by putting in a prohibitively large raise — sometimes even all in — regardless of what their cards are, just to 'teach you a lesson.' It is particularly troublesome to have the player on your left be angry with you, because his positional advantage gives him endless opportunities to punish and confound you for the next several hours.
This part of the game is perhaps hard for new players to understand, but it's absolutely true. Having friendly relations and good feelings between you and your opponents wins you more money than having hard feelings and resentment. In terms of long-term profit, that factor vastly outweighs the small edge you might have in contesting blind-on-blind pots. Besides, it's a lot more pleasant to spend the time sitting next to people with whom you're on good terms than people who are glowering at you, thinking you're a jerk, and looking for chances to rub your face in a big loss.
Your Chopping Choice
'Okay,' you think. 'That sounds reasonable, and I'll agree to chop the blinds if the other guy does — at least most of the time. But surely not when I've finally been dealt the pocket aces or kings that I've been waiting for!'
Sorry, but that's not how it works. With any given adjacent player, you need to either always chop, or never chop. Doing it selectively is both socially wrong and strategically disastrous.
Since you have veto power over the chop, would you passively allow your opponent to decide to chop most hands, but play his very strongest ones? Of course not. That would be to voluntarily put yourself at a disadvantage. It follows, by the golden rule, that you should not attempt to impose such a scheme on your opponent. Any player with half a brain won't let you do it anyway, and you'll generate resentment for trying.
Once in a while you'll hear somebody brag that he always chops 'even if I have aces,' as if this makes him a morally superior human being. It doesn't. For the reasons just explained, the decision should be thought of as always or never — and the 'always' part of that includes pocket aces.
What should you do if you find yourself paired in the blinds with a would-be selective chopper? Maybe it's a guy who chopped with you the first three times the situation arose, but then the fourth time says, 'Sorry, but I have to play this one out.' Since both players must agree to a chop, you can't force him to continue chopping.
You can, however, surrender the currently insignificant pot to him, then refuse to chop thereafter for as long as you're sitting together. In fact, that is precisely what you should do, as both a social and profit-making strategy.
Basic game theory dictates that this is a situation where 'tit-for-tat' applies. You voluntarily cooperate until the other guy defects, after which you stop cooperating with him, because he has proven himself to be unreliable. You need not be unfriendly about this. You just smile and say, 'Let's play it' every subsequent time he suggests a chop.
If you wish, you can explain that, by general consensus, chopping is always or never, and his defection meant that he was choosing 'never.' But you don't have to articulate that. The message will become abundantly clear by your subsequent consistent refusal to chop. (Of course, you can and should continue to cooperate in a chop with the player on your other side if that has been your pattern.)
What Is The Purpose Of Blinds In Poker
In poker rooms where there is a high-hand jackpot, some pairs of players will openly agree to a selective-chop arrangement in which the two will play out any hand in which one of them has jackpot potential (pocket pairs or suited connectors, typically). The usual signal not to chop a hand is something like, 'Let's play this one.'
The expectation, either explicit or implicit, is that the players will both just check on every street, unless the big hand actually comes in. In that case, the player who has it will make a bet which, if called, will meet the minimum pot size, and the other will be expected to call, with the understanding that that bet will be quietly refunded upon payment of the jackpot.
You should know that such an arrangement may violate the casino's rules for the bonus, depending on the exact wording of the rule and how explicit the players' agreement is. It's at least a gray area, and for that reason I prefer to avoid these situations, and stick to a truly universal chop-or-play deal. But declining this arrangement when offered may well cause resentment and retaliation by a player who prefers it. It's tricky to deal with, and I'm not sure there is a perfect or universal solution.
Once in a while, you'll end up seated next to a player who prefers to play rather than chop every time. If so, don't get in a snit about it. Cheerfully agree to the arrangement, and play. The concerns about a social faux pas and causing ill feelings are no longer present in that situation, so take the chance to learn to play those difficult blind-versus-blind hands. You'll need that experience when you play tournaments, where chopping the blinds is never allowed.
Conclusion
To sum up:
What Is The Meaning Of Blinds In Poker
- If the other player wants to chop routinely, then be cooperative.
- Don't let anybody else bully you with selective chopping on his terms.
- Whatever you decide with another player, honor your agreement, and always be friendly and cheerful about it.
Remember — you're playing poker, not mowing the lawn or shoveling snow. Don't allow petty disputes over the blinds spoil your enjoyment of the game.
What Is The Blinds In Poker Room
Robert Woolley lives in Asheville, NC. He spent several years in Las Vegas and chronicled his life in poker on the 'Poker Grump' blog.
What Is The Blinds In Poker
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